Tonight We're Gonna Party Like It's 1399 - Part I

Sunday July 16, 2006 (continued again)

Everyone was filled with warm, fuzzy feelings after giving and receiving praise for a job extremely well done. Now it was time to celebrate and go out in style. So we loaded the buses and prepared for the hour drive to our final group event in the Czech Republic.

To pass the time, Bubu (we love you Bubu) decided to teach our bus a traditional Czech song. Supposedly all four buses were learning a separate song, and later in the evening we were to have a sing-off to declare the winner. Bubu wanted her bus to win and we wanted to win it for Bubu! The song was called: Ó hřebíčku zahradnický. It sounds a little like Oh, My Darlin' Clementine, and it is about walking in a spring garden, smelling the rosy perfume, and being oblivious to anything else. It was really hard to bend the tongue around some of the words, but after a couple of run-throughs we felt confident that we would easily blow away the other buses! :-) In a singing mood (aren't singers always?), we decided to belt out other songs during the ride. There was a wild variety; everything from Swing Low, Sweet Chariot, Bicycle Built for Two, Bohemian Rhapsody by Queen, to the theme song of the Flintstones. It was like some crazy a capella karaoke (without the machine of course), but it made for a great time!!

Finally, we arrive at our destination; DĚTENICE CHATEAU BREWERY . Most people tend to think of Germany when it comes to beer, but I have since learned that beer from Czech Republic is supposed to be the best (I personally do not like beer of any nationality...but I have friends who do, and I made sure to take notes for them). Like their beer-loving neighbors from Germany, the Czechs brew their beer under purity laws where the only ingredients allowed are hops, yeast, malt and water, resulting in a deliciously pure product. Gulping a massive 159 liters per year, the Republic is home to the world’s highest beer consumption per capita. In fact, about 20% of the population are registered alcoholics, leaving the country nursing an inevitable hangover. The best known Czech beer is the original Pilsner beer, Pilsner Urquell, brewed in the town of Plzen and exported worldwide. The most widely exported Czech Beer is Budvar (Budweiser in German), the name of which is also used by an unrelated American brew.

During the day, you may tour the brewery and learn about its rich history. Located in the cellars is the Medieval Tavern, where we were going to be spending our last evening together. We had NO idea what was in store for us. We entered the building into the first restaurant area that looked to be for the locals. People were eating at long wooden tables and benches as we passed into the second room. This was a larger area filled with tables where the adults and college students were being seated. The high-schoolers were paraded to the back and final room, which was decorated in...well let me get to that later.

While we were all psyched to be here, let me say there is no way a place like this would be in the US. There had to be at least fifty safety violations inside. The arched rooms of stone were lit with real candles, on wall sconces, iron chandeliers and on table candlesticks. Strewn all over the stone floor was a layer of flammable hay, to give you that medieval feeling, just like the huge fire pits where the food was cooked. Oh well, live and let live...let's have fun!

I sat at a table near the door to the third room, sitting with my trip roommate Carol Loar, and Converse girls Katie McDaniel, Anna Katherine (AK) Smith, Lauren Pope and Leala Shishakly. On our table were three round loves of hard bread and large glass steins of beer, oh and a flaming candle. Not really knowing what to do, we sat and waited. Jirka (and let me tell you in case you think his name is pronounced Jerk-a....it is actually pronounced "Year-kah", been meaning to clarify that)...anyway, Jirka came to our table and told us to enjoy our traditional peasant meal of beer and bread, and walked off. This was it? All we were getting was beer and bread? Nah.... I took my bread and created a bread puppet, which many around me got a kick out of...I think I'll name him Chleba, which is bread in Czech.

Our waitress, dressed as a tavern wench (of course) took our water and coke orders, while a man, dressed as a leper, complete with long filthy hair, dirty skin, tattered clothes and a large walking staff to lean on, trudged up the aisle dragging his "bad" leg behind him. We acted accordingly and moved away from the leper when he approached our area. The tavern staff was dressed in many other old-world garbs. There was the Jack-Sparrow wanna-be, with tri-corn hat and cool black boots, there were the musicians looking more like heavy metal superstars in their leather and chains, and then there were the gypsy girls!! Oh, yes, it turned into a Medieval Hooters!

The gypsy girls, decked in black slit skirts and belly baring leather halter tops, jumped on the wooden tables and began to belly dance to the hypnotic rhythm of the drumming provided by our metal head musicians. It got the attention of every red-blooded male in the building! A few college boys sprang to their feet to join in the wild gyrating. The girls made their 6-pack stomachs quiver so quickly, it almost looked like they were having fits. The festive lads at their sides proudly showed off their dance-club moves, garnering looks of awe and respect from the gypsy girls. It was one of the moments when you watched, had a great time, but felt like surely you would have to have some sort of penance later. There were many other moments like that, as you will see later.

During the music and dancing, the real food was laid out buffet style on a center line of tables. There was more meat than I had ever seen, with kabobs, sausages, chicken, pork, beef...a vegetarian's nightmare. Oh there were a few veggies, grilled corn and pickled cabbage, but mostly it was a meat lover's feast. Still, we loaded our plates and dug in...it was yummy.

While we ate, a man draped with a huge python approached our table, showing off his cuddly pet and inviting anyone who wanted the snake wrapped around them to come forth. Lauren Pope had a major panic attack, and not in a humorous way. No one could have known she was terrified of snakes that much, and when she fled the building, it took a while to console her and convince her to come back inside. Meanwhile, AK loved the snake...she wants to join the circus and be SNAKE GIRL! It was hilarious! But we asked Snake Man to leave and to please not come our way again.

When AK went to tell the man to not come back, she was grabbed by the Jack-Sparrow man, who looked her up and down and made like he was going to abduct her. AK's father, Jimmy Smith, was also on the trip with us and when he saw AK with "Sparrow" he went toward them. Now, we all thought Jimmy was going to ask "Sparrow" to leave his daughter alone, but Jimmy is a really fun loving guy and played right along with the display. Jimmy informed "Sparrow" that he needed to see some money if "Sparrow" wanted his daughter. We all howled in laughter when "Sparrow" shrugged ok, and started digging in his pockets for loose change. AK was stunned! She gave her dad a look of surprised indignation, but smiled all the same. When "Sparrow" showed Jimmy the money, Jimmy said it was not enough. Out of no where, the Leper appeared and became an additional player in the performance. After some bartering, AK was somehow sold to the Leper, who was dismissed with a playful slap to the face. It was to look playful, but the slap knocked off a fake golden earring which Jimmy claimed as his own. We shouted out comments like "Jimmy, we can't believe you sold your daughter to a leper", giving AK looks of mock sympathy, all the while wiping our mirthfully wet eyes.

Just when we didn't think it could get any better, noise from the back room got our attentions. Just what was back there??

Until next time...
Renee

Accolades All Around

Sunday July 16, 2006 (continued)

After a wonderful day of shopping and independent sightseeing, our last real day in the heart of Prague, it was time to prepare for our final group event before everyone departed for home. We all met in the conference room of the hotel, where we had been holding our rehearsals. There, waiting for us was Jirka, Dr. Gutierrez, and all of the wonderful helpers we had during the week; BuBu, Lucka, Dana and many others.

Once settled in, Jirka thanked us for all of our hard work and dedication during the week. He told us again, how proud he had been of our performance the previous night, and how the response was something he had never really seen from the Czech people. Then Dr. Gutierrez spoke, giving us his own praise and thanks and saying he enjoyed working with our group immensely. He explained, too, how his passion was teaching, and how he encouraged all of us to continue learning and pass our knowledge along. And if you want to look him up, Dr. Gutierrez informed us he plans on being at TCU for a long time, doing what he loves best, teaching the love of music. It was a shame we did not have a chance to say good-bye as well to Dr. Walders, for he was also a huge part of our success. He was just wonderful!

When Jirka spoke again, he asked for responses or comments from anyone around the room, about their experiences or observations. Many people, including myself, spoke. I told them of how this was simply a once in a lifetime opportunity for me and that I would have never imagined myself working with such high caliber professionals such as the ones that surrounded me throughout this incredible week. And I thanked Jirka and his staff for just an amazingly organized and well thought-out itinerary. Everything was the perfect balance of work and play. During the course of group comments, I know I began to feel extremely emotional, and looking around the room at the other misty eyes, I knew this week had a huge effect on us, musically, physically, and emotionally. It was just not something we were EVER going to forget. Then, we were all given a certificate that read the following:

DIPLOMA OF EXCELLENCE IN MUSIC
Present to
(in this case) RENEE HILL
for your artistic achievement
in the Hartwick College Choral Festival and Institute
Carl Orff: Carmina burana; Czech National Symphony Orchestra
July 10 - 17, 2006, Smetana Hall, Prague, Czech Republic
signed
Dr. German Gutierrez, Columbia
Conductor
and
Dr. Jirka Kratochvil, Czech Republic
Artistic Director

This was just the icing on the cake! Or was it? We still had a big night planned ahead....a wild, medival blow-out!!
Coming soon,
Renee

Leisurely Sunday in Prague

Sunday July 16, 2006 - Just the start of a long day

Today was our FREE day in Prague, where we could walk unassisted around the city, to explore on our own, to shop for souvenirs for our loved ones back home, to blend in with the people and absorb our surroundings one last time. With everyone's agenda within the group so different, I don't think I can really put into words all of the experiences of that day, but I can tell you how I recall it at least.

Our morning began with two choices. The first choice was to go to a Czech mass at St. Nicolas Church in the Old Town Square. After the mass, the James Madison Singers would perform a capella for those who wanted to listen before heading out for shopping and exploration. Our second choice was not to go to the church but to start the free exploration right away, but find our own way into town. Everyone was asked to return to the hotel on their own by 5 pm.

I chose option two. A couple of girls from Converse had missed our tour of Prague earlier in the week, and had asked me and my roommate, Carol, if they could come with us to shop and while out we could point out all of the sights for them. Our first mission; get downtown. Those going to the church service rode on buses earlier, so we had to make it another way.

One aspect of Prague that we had not yet tackled was the tram. All around Prague (except for the heart of the historical areas), electric trams transported people to and fro. I grew accustomed to seeing the long red trams stop and then zip by, as well as their distinct sounds as I heard them run throughout the night from my hotel window. But I was a bit apprehensive about attempting more of the Prague transportation system.

Traveling around Prague FELT extremely treacherous. Our bus drivers drove very rapidly down the narrow roads, and there were many times I would flinch at the sight of a car thisclose alongside us. Same with the taxis, when a group and I rode back to our hotel from Don Giovanni. Our driver must have imagined himself in the Indy 500, as he rocketed us to our destination in record time. I wonder if there are still indentations from my clinched fingers in the taxi's upholstery...very heart-stopping ride. And that reminds me...drivers don't like to stop over there! I know I voiced quite frequently that there were not many Stop signs, or red lights, or yield signs. Everyone in the group chuckled at my observations, but I was serious! It was very unnerving!

But then, I was a tourist, not used to the speed in which the city moved. I watched in amazement at locals walking confidently across the street in front of oncoming traffic. Yet no one was injured. They just had the timing down to a science, or just had such assurance that a speeding vehicle would slow in time. It made the video game FROGGER come to mind...and I did not want to be squashed.

But the tram was the cheapest and most accessible way for us to get where we wanted. A ticket only cost 20 Kc (more on the money later), so Carol, Leala, Lauren and I bought our tickets and headed down to the tram station nearest our hotel. To get there we had to go down a huge flight of concrete steps. (Based on this, and the fact that the two tiny elevators in our hotel never came when needed and we had to take the stairs to our rooms all the time, I am convinced that is why our hotel was named Hotel STEP!)

Once at the main road, we asked a Czech woman for directions to the station. She spoke no English and our Czech was limited to "hello" and "thank-you" but she got the gist and we followed her to a station. She was pushing a stroller, and if I had not seen a baby myself, I would begin to wonder that this was a clever "decoy" used as a way to ensure speeding motorists would stop in time, since she too just crossed the road with not an ounce of fear.

Once on the tram, you validate the ticket by placing it in a machine to get stamped. It pretty much is the honor systems, since not one person checks it when you come on or off, though they will random check from time to time and if you are caught with no ticket or an old ticket, the fine is pretty heavy. Our tram was not that crowded and once we figured out the map, we the four rode to near Wenceslas Square and then began our free day.

It was mainly a shopping expedition, with a little more sight-seeing tossed in. The weather, which had been usually warm during the week, was absolutely perfect. With a gentle wind, mild temperatures and fair skies, it was incredibly pleasant to be out and about Prague. It was very crowded, with lots of other tour groups following their guides, some of who would hold up a silk flower above their heads for easier location. But we felt like old pros by this point and rather easily maneuvered our way up the streets around Old Town Square.

There were many shops to chose from, ranging from indoor storefronts, to outdoor booths near the square. Paying with Czech koruna ("koruna" means crown) was a little hard for me. Well, to be more precise, I had a hard time not trying to be frugal. The exchange rate while we were there was about 22 crowns for every dollar, so there were a lot of good deals. But my brain would revolt instinctively at 100 Kc price tag. It would say "There is no way I am paying 100 for that!!", but in reality it would only be close to $5.00. Or when I went to the ATM to draw out money, I felt a tad panicky withdrawing 2,000 Kc...even though it was a little over $88.00. Once I managed to get over that neurosis, I happily purchased the gifts I wanted for my family.

We ate lunch at a great little pizzeria, and I took a ton more photos of some of the 30 statues that are mounted to the balustrade of the Charles Bridge. They form two rows, one on each side. My most favorites were: The

Crucifix and Calvary, Statue of St. John of Nepomuk , Statue of St. John the Baptist, & St. Francis Seraphic. These are simply remarkable, some with their golden accents blazing from the sunlight. The first time we encountered them the day had been a bit gray and misty, but today's impeccable blue sky backdrop exquisitely showcased the statues .

There were lots of artisan's along the bridge selling their work, and I got the cutest print called Small Night Music by Zuzana Polívkovi . I really loved it because it incorporated the Charles Bridge of Prague and Eine kleine Nachtmusik by Mozart and seemed whimsical, like the city. I did acquire some traditional watercolor prints as well. One mission I had was to purchase painted eggs, a Slavic tradition. I found one place selling them and purchased 10. They are very similar to these. Long story short, despite my most constant attention on the way home...only 9 made the trip! :-) But still, I was successful!

Finally it was time to ride the tram back to the hotel to prepare for our last evening here. So Carol, Lauren and Leala and I hopped the number 3 to get back. The way back was very confusing, since everything was written in Czech, and the automatic announcing of stops was said in Czech. Somehow when we got off, we didn't quite end up where we thought we should be. When we went down a road that we expected would come out to the tall steps leading the the hotel parking lot, we ended instead at train tracks near the hub we would hear outside our hotel windows. It was a panicky moment, especially when Lauren and Leala decided to just continue ahead and cross the tracks hoping to come to a road. When they turned a corner and disappeared for a very moments, I felt anxious for them...and it did not help to see strange men approaching from that direction either. But I went after them, and Carol and I eventually found the girls basically climbing up the side of the hill that somehow came to the very steps we were searching for. Despite the unexpected hike, I was just relieved that we made it safe and sound.

One thing I had been lucky in, during the entire trip, was not to be a victim of pickpockets. Apparently that is a big problem in Prague, as in many other cities, but we were all trying to be extra cautious of that during our stay. It was so unfortunate that one of our SFC singers did have a "bump-in" with a pickpocket while getting on to a tram. Our very last day there, and Roland's wallet was stolen from his front pocket in the split second it took him to just grab a bar to hold steady and then sit down. We all felt badly that he would now have to go through the process of canceling credit cards and getting a new license. What a shame. The good news was that there was no money in the wallet, it was safe with Julie, Roland's wife, and despite it all, Roland just had such a positive attitude, as always. Still, they are too nice of people to have that happen.

When we returned, I heard from the others who went to the mass and heard the JMU singers perform. They all raved about the church and its' beauty; how amazing the JMU singers sounded in such an acoustically live space, and how excited they were when some joined the JMU singers for a few songs. It made me wish I had been able to go to that as well. The church's exterior is so magnificent on the corner of Old Town Square, and I can only imagine from what I heard that it was equally ethereal inside. But it just goes to show how much Prague has to offer a visitor, and how you simply cannot hope to accomplish it all in one day, and our day was far, far from done!

Next post: How we celebrated our last evening, and boy, was it ever a celebration! I will post it later this week!
Renee

The Afterglow

July 15, 2006

With satisfying success, Spartanburg Festival Chorus, along with 110+ other voices, sang Carmina Burana in Prague on July 15th! It was a thrilling experience and though this next post is two weeks after the moment, the sights and sounds are still fresh within me and will certainly remain in my memory forever. Even now, little details pop into my mind about the concert that I failed to mention before, such as:

Maestro Gutierrez conducted the orchestra, chorus and soloists that evening ALL FROM MEMORY! He did not have a stand with the score in front of him, as is typical. It was so impressive to watch him realizing he knew exactly where a certain instrument was highlighted, when the music changed time, and he even mouthed all of the difficult text along with us!! It was truly an amazing show of talent and ability. His students at TCU are very fortunate to have him as their leader on a daily basis, and I can promise that should he conduct anything near me again, I will make the attempt to go, so much respect I have for this man!

At the VERY last minute, we had six Czech men join our group to sing with us. They showed up at the dress rehearsal two hours before the concert, and then performed with us. It was a bit scary, because as I said early, this was a MAN peice and there are some very tricky parts. So to add six men to the mix so close to showtime made some of us nervous. They spoke no English, so communicating with them was interesting. I was near three of the new singers, and they had no idea of the little things like entering/exiting the stage protocol or other things Dr. Walders went over with us earlier. Niether did they match the other men exactly in terms of attire, small things really, like some were wearing short sleeves when they were supposed to wear long. Still, during final rehearsal, these men did well. Tthey spat out the text with clear enunciation, and did not slow the pace of In Tabernum, which could have been the nail-biting section. I don't know any of their names, but it turned out that they blended in nicely to our eclectic group.

After the concert and once the audience departed, all festival people (that was us), congregated in the seating area to be led to our evening's after concert dinner. According to our itinerary, we were expecting a twenty minute walk to have a cold buffet dinner near the Vltava River. It didn't sound all that exciting, a cold buffet, but by this point we were just thrilled with everything and excited to continue the evening. I am sure a large group of dapperly dressed singers walking through Old Town Square caused some heads to turn. (But more heads turned when a group of girls wearing bunny ears (reminiscent of Playboy I suppose) walked past us....right Jack? LOL)

Everything at dusk just looked enchanting. Clouds painted orange and purple made stunning backdrops for the buildings we had come to recognize, giving everything a fairy-tale sense. It only added to the warmth that filled me. I had really come to love Prague and it was then, that I knew, I just have to come back and bring my family some day!

Along our walk, we laughed and were very playful. Some of us were "teaching" Eranga Goonetilleke (a Converse student from Sri Lanka with beautiful aristocratic speech) the finer nuisances of Redneck phrases such as "Git r done", and "Kiss My Grits", with hilarious results, as we watched Eranga try to wrap her mouth around the harsh stretched-out words. It made me think of My Fair Lady, when Professor Henry Higgins is tutoring Eliza Doolittle...but in reversal. We all agreed it would be a shame to ruin Eranga's elegant speech.

We soon stopped walking and arrived at our SUPRISE!!. Our meal was not near the Vltava, but ON the Vltava on two dinner boats, one boat for the high school and college students, one boat for the adults. We separated and were treated with a lovely selection of food and desserts and allowed two drinks. I tried my first Czech beer, a Pilsner. I don't like beer, but felt I needed to "Do as Praguers" at this celebratory moment.



The scenes before us as we floated down the Vltava were stunning...all of the magnificent buildings that filled us with wonderment during they day, became magical at night, awash in the gentle glow of lights. The air was cool with a gentle breeze, the food and drink were plenty, the ambience was flawless, and the company of people I kept were warm and gregarious. A fitting way to end our perfect day!

The buses eventually took us back to the hotel, and with a feeling of sheer fullfillment, we went to bed, wondering what our last day in Prague would have in store for us.

:-)
Renee

Success at Smetana

Saturday July 15, 2006

Well, this is it! The day we have been working toward - our performance at Smetana Hall. This week has really flown by. We've been keeping busy and having such a memorable time too, even with the few set backs. But tonight is where it culminates and we are ready!

We woke up and had a relaxed breakfast (mmm, the granola is so yummy), and the plan was to just have a small rehearsal with Dr. Walders to go over any last minute trouble spots. We were given pep talks and words of encouragement from everyone, Dr. Walders, Dr. Gutierrez, and Jirka. Then we were released for lunch and then to get all dolled up for our afternoon dress rehearsal at Smetana.

We were bused down near the concert hall, but had to walk the remainder of the way due to major road construction being done. So there we were, 140 people, dressed in black concert attire, walking past Czech construction workers, crossing over wooden planks through dust filled air, to make our way to Smetana Hall. What a sight we must have been to the locals! :-)

Once at the hall, the ooohing and aahing began. Smetana Hall is within the Municipal House. The building was so very beautiful, with an interesting stain glass piece hanging at the entrance. On the sidewalk was an advertisement for this evening's performance. We were here! We were part of Prague Proms, which I am assuming is a summer music festival of sorts, with a variety of different concerts given over the season. We really had no idea how many people to expect for our concert, but it was pretty heavily advertised around Prague.

We were excited to go inside as it had AIR CONDITIONING!! Not a very strong one, mind you, but still enough for us not to melt during our dress rehearsal! Inside was glorious! Everything was stunning with the neo-gothic architecture and art nouveau elements. At the stage end of the hall was the original organ from the high art-nouveau period. (Prague is just a melting pot of different architectural styles, which is one reason why it is such an interesting place.)


Looking from the stage out was a breathtaking view of warm glowing lights and beautiful stain glass windows, especially the huge oval window in the middle of the ceiling! This was by far the most glamorous place I have ever seen as a performer, and I have sung at Carnegie Hall!

Once situated in our singing places (I was back row, first female on right next to basses), our Maestro began the dress rehearsal. The sound that came from our group and the orchestra seemed unworldly. I could not believe that I was actually a part of the music that filled the hall with such power and beauty. It was at that moment that it finally struck me full force, how incredibly lucky I was to be here. I mean I knew I was lucky, and I couldn't thank my family enough for allowing me to go...but it was more than that. I felt as if I was about to be part of something very special.

Rehearsal went great, and then we were allowed to have bathroom and snack breaks before we had to take our places in line-up to go on stage. We had 40 minutes before the concert. The time flew by, but it was with relief to know we could now enter the stage...the anticipation which had been building for over year, was simply becoming to much to bear.

The seats were full in the audience, and it was up to us to make the people happy, which could have been a daunting task. Praguers know their music!! There's a saying "Every Czech is a musician." The Czech Republic has a very strong music tradition. If you go there, you'll hear music playing everywhere. It is in their blood. So if we do a bad job...we will know it! But what if we do well? How would they respond? When I went to the opera, the response was good, but no standing ovation or wild applause as we would expect in the States! We were going to sing for a tough crowd!

The downbeat of Oh Fortuna rang though the air, and our mass of voices soon followed. We sang our fullest, enunciated every consonant, stressed every accent, watched the Maestro for every direction. We sang for ourselves, our families and friends, our directors, our audience. We were singing in Prague!

The soloists sang their sections, and Dr. Jones really was the best of the three. Not only vocally, but he played to the crowd quite humorously. Using his black music folder, he would act out his words, his swan song, and turn back to the chorus of men with a face that pleaded "please don't cook and eat me"! But the men would sing back their chant, and Dr. Jones would turn back to the audience with solemn resolve. It really was wonderful and we saw several audience members smile with delight or laugh at the added theatrics presented by Dr. Jones. They KNEW what he was singing about...which proves these people know their music!!

Carmina is really a song full of testosterone. Men LOVE singing it, for the middle movements are Men Only, singing as drunken monks to some of the most complicated music around. The temp is very fast, and there is an overload of text, so the men really have it work hard at their sections. But they did it perfectly!! We women stood and watched in awe and wanted so badly to applaud when they finished...we are always so impressed with the work they do on those sections.

But we had to sing to the finish, a total of 24 movements, close to an hour in length. When we sang our very last note, a most powerful moment, and the baton came down to make it all end...you could still hear our voices reverberating around the hall in echo, and then the applause began. The people stood up and applauded, and continued as the Maestro took his bow, as the soloists were presented for bows, as Dr. Walders came out for a bow, as the Maestro swept his arms back toward us, the chorus and then the orchestra. On and on it went. It went on still when the Maestro and soloists left the stage.

TWO times the Maestro was called back, and TWO times we sang sections from Carmina again for the crowd. It was absolutely incredible! When we finally left the stage, beaming with elation at what we just accomplished, we were greeted with a crying BuBu, who said she was so very proud of us! She then told us that NEVER had she seen such a reaction in Smetana Hall. Her words were "The Czechs do not give standing ovations...we are cold and reserved!" Well, that night, they were the warmest most open people in the world, and it was a honor to sing for them!!

Our night was still relatively young, but I need to take a break. Until I come back, enjoy the official photographs of that evening!
Love,

Renee

A Friday Full of Maestros

Friday July 14, 2006

Today was a big day for our group, as it was going to be the first day we would sing for our concert's Maestro; Dr. Germán Gutierrez. We were very excited and we wanted to perform well for him, and to also show Dr. Walders how well we had learned under him in just two short rehearsals.

I failed to mention our WONDERFUL accompanist for our rehearsals, a lovely, quiet Czech man named Vilda (sp?). He would tirelessly hammer out the music on his synthesized piano, obviously loving his job! And every morning we would address him in high sing-sung voices during warm ups "Hellooooo Vilda!". He was great! But he was not used to praise, or at least he became overwhelmed when we expressed our thanks for his hard work during the week, for Vilda's eyes began to fill with tears. :-( What a sweet man!

When the Maestro arrived, he did not dally, but went straight into the piece, with Vilda banging out the power cords of Oh Fortuna! Along the way, Dr. Gutierrez would stop and tweak the music, making us more aware of accents, dynamics, enunciation. And we would sing it back as he requested. We sang until lunch time, but we could not be too relaxed as that afternoon we were also going to have our first rehearsal with the Czech National Symphony Orchestra!

Once we arrived at the rehearsal hall, we had to wait a while for the orchestra to warm up. We sat outside on the steps on a warm and windy day (but remember, I don't complain any more!) We then were led inside to the rehearsal room. The orchestra was seated and our group situated ourselves in the cramped available spaces. Then, again, it was down to business. WHAT an amazing thing to hear us with the orchestra!

I have to say that I was extremely proud of our Spartanburg Philharmonic when we performed with them in April. But I need to be honest and say there is simply no comparison with the orchestra we had now. I think it stems mainly from the fact that Prague is a musical Mecca. So much of the city's rich cultural history was suppressed during their time ruled by the communist. Even having being liberated for as long as they have, the western civilization has really no idea what amazing talents are cultivated here! Jirka informed us that Czech National Symphony Orchestra is one of six major orchestras in Prague, so deep is the talent pool!

Maestro Gutierrez was simply commanding, and at ease with directing both voice and instrument. He is incredible to watch in action! He really seems to enjoy this music, especially when the brass section comes in (oh, what a brass section too!! WOW!).

This practice was also the first time we were able to hear and work with the soloists for our concert. As I said earlier, our own Dr. Jones was invited for the Tenor solo. His solo is probably the least glamorous of Carmina; he is singing as a roasting swan and his voice must emulate that. Dr. Jones has a wonderful voice, and it seems a shame he is singing internationally a part that does not truly showcase it. But WE KNOW how good he is....and so will Prague soon.

The soprano soloist is Martha Constanza Gutiérrez-Upegui , which we learned is our Maestro's sister. She has quite a impressive background of her own. And the baritone soloist is Jiří Hájek. I want to be as delicate as possible, while both of these singers are truly talented, it was the opinion of many within the SFC group, that the soloists we had with our Spartanburg concert, Danielle Gillespie and Jason McKinney, sang their parts SO MUCH nicer, and could have EASILY held their own at this venue...it made us wish they were with us! We thought they were simply marvelous!!!

Still, everything, from solos, to chorus, to orchestra, really was coming together under the direction of Drs. Walders and Gutierrez, and the excitement was building at what was to come the next evening. We were dismissed with high praise and were then free to have an evening to ourselves.

Some people wanted to tour the city, others wanted to take in a Black Light Show (something the Czech's are known for). But many of us, myself included, wanted to take the opportunity to see the opera. And not just any opera, but Don Giovanni by W. A. Mozart. What makes this one so special? It was playing at the Estate Theater, the very theater that saw the debut of Don Giovanni , conducted by Mozart himself in 1787! And this is the 250th anniversary of Mozart, who was the adopted son of Prague, having had much more success and respect here than in his home of Vienna. With all of that background in mind, it was a chance of a lifetime to attend the opera while in Prague!

After grabbing a quick bite to eat, a group of us walked toward the elegant green and white Estate Theater for the 8 o'clock show. Inside was incredibly beautiful. The auditorium was covered in baby blue and gold. It was surreal! It was a bit warm, as there is no AC here either, but really not that bad thanks to cooler weather. The women of the opera were divine, with amazing voices!! Most of the men were very good as well, though many agreed the lead male was a bit weak.(There was no standing ovation...remember that for later!) Still, it was very enjoyable, and not something I will soon forget!

After trying not to get ripped off from the taxi drivers, we made our way back to the hotel, tired but coming to truly love the city of Prague and all of it's magic.

Renee

A Somber Tour at Terezin

Thursday July 13, 2006

We had a very productive rehearsal with Dr. Walders again today, practicing for over three hours. The sound produced by the group is very professional, like we have been doing this together for years, rather than meeting each other a day before. Since everyone in the group has sung Carmina before within their own hometowns, there is little to stumble over in the piece. We are just fine tuning the music and preparing for what the Maestro will expect for us tomorrow when we meet. For me, rehearsals are very enjoyable. I really love the give and take between a conductor and group and hearing the progress. It is no different here.

After lunch, we prepared to leave for our afternoon group tour to a small but historically very important city northwest of Prague – Terezin. The massive strongholds were founded in 1780 by Emperor Joseph II and named after his mother, Empress Maria Theresa. In 1940, the Nazi Gestapo established a prison in the Lesser Fortress and the Main Fortress was turned into a transit concentration camp and Jewish ghetto. Some 150,000 European Jews eventually passed through this concentration camp en route to extermination camps, and thousands perished here.

Entering the property, three things hit your eye, 1) A Christian cross with a circle of barbed wire in the middle, 2) a large Star of David and 3) 601 white stone graves graced with flaming red flowers. (I WILL POST PHOTOS WHEN I RETURN…SO SORRY!)

We walked down a shaded path to the entrance of Terezin and were met with our guide for the day, Eva. It became apparent soon after she began the tour how good she was at her job, and also, how passionate she was at educating the people that came to this place.

Let me just say before I get started about the tour that while we have been in Prague, it has been unusually warm, there has been no air conditioning, not enough ice, no washcloths, despite it being a very lovely and modernized city. And we, used to our many creature comforts at home, have dealt with these issues, with some complaint I will admit, but understanding that this is just the way it is in this area. After our tour of Terezin however, I have not complained at all about the things that I don’t have…and you will soon understand why.

We stood in a small courtyard, the place where people, when brought to Terezin, were registered, given a number, removed of their clothing and personal belongings, and issued new clothing, which were old Czech uniforms from WWI with colored stars to differentiate the groups they were in. We, like them, walked to the end of the yard to go under an archway with the words ARBEIT MACHT FREI (Work Makes you FREE).

We entered a larger courtyard, which housed solitary cellblocks. These were extremely small, and prisoners where put in there often naked, with no bed, blanket, heat, or toilet. Some cells had a barred window up high, while some did not. Many people died while being held in these rooms.

Next we went into a living area where bunk-beds three levels high went along one wall, while small cubbie-like sections flanked the other. Through the middle of the room ran one long picnic type table. At the end of the room stood one sink, and there was one water closet for a bathroom. We had 53 people in our group and it was a little crowded, though we could still move around. Eva informed us that over 100 people would be kept in here, which was a medium sized room. We saw a larger room that would hold 700 people! They would lay on the bed frames side-by-side, with no mattress or blanket, no heat. This is where they would sleep and eat after 12-hour workdays. When they did eat it would be water and a very small amount of food. After being there for six months, their rations were cut in half. Though Terezin was not an extermination camp with gas chambers, many people died here due to torture, malnutrition and poor hygiene.

We went into a holding room that was stone and just one high window. We all stood inside, our 53, and were cramped. We were horrified that 70 people would be put in here…there was just no way to imagine adding more people to the room we were in! We saw the room where they would be stripped of their clothing for delousing (which they did by using a big steam machine), then they would enter a large shower area for a two minute cold shower with as many as 10 to a showerhead. They would then receive their wet clothes and return to their rooms, where in the winter gets well below freezing.

We saw a bathroom with sinks and mirrors flanking the sides. But this was never used, as it was done to make others think the people were being taken care of during schedules Red Cross visits.

Because Terezin is originally a fortress, it has an amazing network of tunnels, both underground and within the walls. It was to be used for escape if needed by the founding Emperor. It was never used however. We were able to take about a four-minute walk in this narrow arched tunnel and, at times going underground where the change in temperature could be felt. Small openings appeared in the tunnel at times, made for ventilation and air-conditioning by the Emperor. It was very cool, and a tad spooky. Many areas of the tunnel blocked by gates and it felt like the kind of place that would have been perfect for Halloween, as we almost expected some one or some thing to jump out at us!

When we emerged from the tunnel, we came to a small sheltered spot, where soldiers would carry out some rifle executions, such as in 1945 when they ended the lives of 51 people in an hour. Only two members of our tour group would have survived had that happened today. It was things like this that really made many of us emotional during the trip.

Even after Liberation in May of 1945, may people at Terezin died due to a Typhoid epidemic, which caused the entire town and camp to be quarantined. Because there was little medical care in the camp, by the time Red Cross took over, it was too late to help many of the newly liberated prisoners.

Some did survive and their memories in the forms of drawings, music, and stories are educating those who visit in the Museum located on the grounds. Also around the camp are a few sculptures made by surviving prisoners, donated to Terezin.

Today, I took a tour with a group of people of many different ages, ethnic and religious backgrounds; our obvious connection was that of music. But we left, connected by this somber experience. I took many photos to bring home, but I am also taking with me the haunting images I have seen, and an ache in my heart for those who had to suffer as they did.

While we are all crammed into the small room meant for 70 people, a small barn swallow flew over our heads. It was surprising because there was only one small barred window and we did not see it come in. However, when I looked up, there, on top of piece of wire caging, was a small nest and four babies craning their necks out for their mother’s return. For some reason, that image sticks with me as one of the most profound of my visit. Life goes on, and on the wings of our young are our hopes and dreams. May they fly strong and free.

Renee

Getting to know Prague

Wednesday July 12, 2006

Today began our first rehearsal. There is a wide representation of singers for this event, high school, college, and community singers all combined to sing Carmina. I will get the actual listing of those schools and groups soon and post them when I can.

Our choral director for our time in Prague is Dr. Patrick Walders, from James Madison University. Let me just say, he is simply wonderful. He exudes energy, has a secure knowledge and understanding of the music, is very clear in his way of expressing his expectation of us…very professional, capable and enjoyable to sing for. He is also very young, no kidding, only twenty-nine! But the age is a non-issue because he has us focusing on warm-ups, and good techniques that are really enriching the sound.

Practice ran until 1:00, we ate a quick lunch in the hotel and then set out on our all-afternoon tour of Prague. Taking our bus into the city, we were divided into seven groups, each having a guide for the tour. The guide for my group I was named Lucka Kratochvil (pronounced Loo-ska) wife of the tour coordinator and Hartwick Director, Jirka Kratochvil.

We started our tour at the Strahov Monastery, which possesses books as old as 900 AD. It had many golden crosses and sunbursts on the outside and roof that with the sun shining on them made them shine with stunning brillance.

Next, we went to the Prague Castle complex, which includes Saint Vitus’ Cathedral and the Royal Palace among other things. We entered the complex through a guarded gate into one of several courtyards heading toward Saint Vitus’s Cathedral. It is an amazingly beautiful building, with many different architechural components: Neo-Gothic main entrance reminiscent of Notre Dame complete with gargoyles. 14th Century Medieval Gothic flying buttresses graced the Chancel end of the building. There were also Romanesque styled windows with beautiful medieval and modern stained glass. Within the church are the actual remains of the famous King Wenceslas (of the well known Christmas Carol).

One thing you might find interesting of Czech’s history is their use of defenestration (to throw out the window). There were three instances where governmental officials were thrown from a window whenever the people were not pleased with the work. We were shown the window where two governeors and their secretary were thrown some 50 feet out the window of the Royal Palace in 1618, which spurred the 30 Year’s War. (The victims survived the fall but the story of how they did so vary, though the Protestant’s said the men landed on a pile of manure that was under the window.)

We made our way to the Charles Bridge, the oldest bridge in Prague, built in the 14th century by King Charles IV, who some believe to be one of the greatest Czech Kings. Beginning in the 18th century, statues of Saints were erected on both sides of the bridge, though copies are standing today, with the originals housed in museums. Along the pedestrian path, vendors were selling crafts or artwork. Legend has it that the reason the bridge has survived seven centuries was due to the 14th century belief in the magic of time and numbers when deciding to lay the founding stone. The date chosen was 1357 on the 9th of July at 5:31 (It is a palindrome: 135797531.) The bridge will be undergoing restoration beginning next year for several years, which made our tour of it all the more special.

Our tour ended with our arrival at Old Town Square, where we viewed the Town Hall clock, an astronomical clock, with two faces, which tell the time as well as the movement of the stars, sun and moon. To prevent the inventor from ever duplicating this amazing timepiece the town leaders blinded him.

In the middle of the square is a huge statue of Jan Hus, who challenged the authority of the Catholic Church in the early 15th century. The people who followed his teachings are known as the Hussites.

It was at this point our tour ended and we were allowed over three hours of free time to explore as we pleased. A group of us wanted to purchase tickets to Mozart’s Opera, Don Giovanni. This is a special opera, made so because it is being shown at the same opera house it debuted at and that this is Mozart’s 250th birthday anniversary! We will be going to view the performance Friday evening and are very excited. It will no doubt be very hot in the theater, but at least I will not be a performer in theatrical clothing or wigs!!

My group consisting of Carol Loar, Barbara Barnes, Robert Mitchell, Eugenie Bierbrauer and Vic and Linda Bilanchone, found a Czech Restaurant where we had some wonderful beer and food. Two in the group ordered a meal the translated from Czech as “Good Grub”, which was mostly made up of different pork dishes.

After strolling around some more, we then met up with our buses and headed back to the hotel after another long, hot, exhausting, but very satisfying day!

I hope to include links and pictures soon!! My next post may not be until Sunday, but will be about: our trip to the German concentration camp, Terezin, more choral practice news, our evening at the opera, and of course, the reason why we are here: our performance Saturday evening!

Hope everyone is well!
Renee

No Rest For The Weary – Part II

Wednesday July 12, 2006 – Prague 9:18 AM

We arrived in Prague around 12:30 Tuesday afternoon, traveling in a twin prop jet (which made me personally very nervous – but we landed!!) Our “meal” on the short flight consisted of a small drink and a jam cookie. That would have to last us several hours to come.

After landing, we went through customs, got our bags (yeah, not a single piece lost), exchanged some money and then we were greeted by a very friendly woman hired by Hartwick, whose name is pronounced Boo-Boo, but it is spelled BuBu (getting ahead again, we cannot help but look at her and say in our best Yogi Bear voice, “Hey Boo-boo!” We later learned that she was actually named after that same cartoon bear!! ) She checked our names off and directed us to the bus that would take us to our hotel.

Our hotel is about 45 minutes from the airport, a little out from the center of Prague. On our way to the hotel one word came to my mind as I took in the sights before me: GRAFITI! The buildings in the outskirts of the city are literally covered in graffiti! Almost every wall had been spray painted in some form or fashion. It was just mind-boggling…no care if it was on a bypass concrete divider or an important office building!! (I later learned that it has only been in the past 10 years or so that it has become a problem).

We came to our hotel and were in a few shocks, The main one, at least for me, was that there is no obvious way to get on the internet even though their website says we can, This is one reason why my blog has been so delayed! The next huge shock is that there is no air conditioning! In Europe that is a fairly common thing, but it was for some reason not expected by us. Whew and it is an unseasonably warm week! Just our luck!

The other surprise is that double occupancy means double bed. So my roommate, Carol Loar, and I have to share a bed, in the heat! We have been leaving the windows wide open, and I do mean wide since there is no such thing as screens either.

Many of our rooms happen to face and be right next to a train station of some sort, so all night long, since you have to keep the windows open wide, you hear trains passing that sound as if they are transporting broken bottles or cans…it is so loud and noisy…but I am getting ahead of myself.

Despite the new surprises, we had a little time to take a shower (a space so tiny you can hardly turn around in) before we had to leave for our first event, the trip to Zbiroh Castle.

Loading 4 buses to transport the 200+ people on the trip, we drove an hour from the hotel for the castle. By this time we are all extremely exhausted, having been up for about 30 hours. We arrive at the castle, get off the bus, and then led by a group of medieval musicians, trek about a mile up a winding gravel path through the woods to the castle.
It was so very hot, we were so tired and very thirsty as well when we reached the top of the path. We were greeted by servers carrying trays of beer, wine, juice and water for us to choose from. Next, we saw a falcon demonstration, followed by a medieval sword fight. We were then ushered inside the castle into a beautifully painted hall, where we were treated to an amazing group, Dubai Fortuna and some dancers. They were phenomenal, the highlight of the long day!

Finally a little after 8, we were all led into a room for a buffet of cold cuts and bread, pickled vegetables and drinks. Outside they cooked BBQ chicken, rice and of course, pork, THE meat here!

After more music, dancing, and fire-twirling jugglers, we loaded up the buses and finally got back to the hotel to sleep…some 38 hours later. What a few days!
Renee

No Rest For The Weary…Part I

Tuesday July 11, 2006 10:34 AM Munich time

I am sitting in the Munich terminal, with no Internet at the moment (which I found surprising considering its size), and while we await our connector flight to Prague, I thought I’d jot down a few notes about the trip thus far.

We had a safe a pleasant flight from Charlotte to Munich. The pilot and stewardesses were very professional and thorough. There was no turbulence and the pilot landed our plane with smooth ease. (YEAH!)

The only small complaints I had was that sleeping was just too difficult to do in the economy seats. Plus, my body was telling me it was only midnight, but it was 6 AM at our destination and we had to get some shuteye if possible. Many tried to snooze or grab a catnap, but those who just could not, watched one of the two movies shown.

We arrived in Munich right at 8 AM Munich time, as scheduled, but that left us a three-hour layover in Munich. Many of us, myself included, took advantage of the uninhabited lobby to stretch out on the seats and snooze.

Now the area is getting busier, so I decided to blog a bit, so I could upload later this evening in my room.

One thing I wanted to do was introduce you to the people traveling with the SFC group. Spartanburg Festival Chorus generally has around 50-60 voices during our concerts. Of our singers, only 24 have made this trip, and the remaining 6 passengers with us are non-singers, either spouses or other family members of singers. Below are the names of all those on this trip.

Spartanburg Festival Chorus Prague Members

Sopranos
Eugenie Bierbrauer
Debbie Brock
Anne Denbow
Eranga Goonetilleke
Heather Jones
Katie McDaniel
Lauren Pope
Leala Shishakly


Altos
Susan Baker
Barbara Barnes
Linda Bilanchone
Renee Hill
Carol Loar
Anna Kathryn Smith
Julie Smith


Tenors
Sheldon Bennett
Robert Mitchell

Basses
Vic Bilanchone
Lee Hagglund
Louis Knoepp
Jack Seitz
Roland Smith
Brennan Szafron

Non-Singers
Jordan Brock
Kitty Hagglund
Lynn Knoepp
Doug McKenzie
Kathy McKenzie
Jimmy Smith

Director and Tenor Soloist
Keith Jones

We will be loading for Prague soon, then there will be a rush to check in, splash our faces, and the load a bus to Zbiroh Castle. Hopefully I will be able to post this soon,

Until then,
Renee Hill

"Czech"ing out of the States tomorrow

Dobrý den! or Hello!

Our group met today to go over some of the last minute details and I am starting to get really excited now, though today's news report did NOT help my anxiety about the flight! I am still a bit emotionally tender, as I sent my boys off to the beach for the week today! Chybíš mi. I miss you Devin & Parker! Have fun and be safe!

*sigh*

Anyway, since zítra (tomorrow) is the big day, I need to get in a a Czech frame of mind and practice some of the language! While I do so, I will give you a brief run down of what pondělí (Monday) will be like, as well as when we arrive.

Our group will be meeting v jednu hodinu (at one o'clock) to load our chartered autobus (bus), and then leave town about třicet (thirty) minutes soon after for the Charlotte-Douglas International Letiště (Airport)

We will be using Lufthansa Airlines. Our flight schedule is below. You may check our let (flight) arrival and departures here. (To make sure we did land!)

LH 429/10 July Charlotte Munich 5:15 PM - 8:00 AM (July 11) úterý (Tuesday)
LH 3270/11 July Munich Prague 11:30 AM - 12:40 PM

Some people have asked me just where IS Prague? It is the capital of the Czech Republic. Take a look at this map.



After clearing customs and collecting the luggage we will load our buses and depart to hotel STEP (http://www.hotelstep.cz/), which is about 45 minutes away.

Our first dinner will be provided at Zbiroh Chateau located about one hour drive west of Prague. An informal evening program will include a falconer show, an introduction to the rich history of the castle of Zbiroh and introduction of the festival staff. We will also be introduced to Dubia Fortuna, a fine medieval chamber music ensemble. Upon our return to the hotel in the late evening, we will need rest well before the next day's first rehearsal.

Na shledanou (Good-Bye) for now! Next post...Prague!
láska (love)
Renee